Can’t we just make it somewhere??
This morning we found ourselves, much like the evening before, wedged into a small space between a steep embankment, and a small river.
This was the only available spot we could find to pitch our tents in the darkness and cold as we tried to make it first to Kremmling, then Radium. Neither destination was going to happen for us.
We quickly got up, and forgoing breakfast, packed our soaked tents and gear and headed off down the incredibly steep slope right in front of us. As it turned out, this was the last significant climb we would have faced if we had chosen to continue to Radium last night. Who knew?
At any rate, we rode on and within an hour or so, soon decended to the Colorado River. Crossing over the river we found the campsite at Radium, CO. Now we had been told there “might” be a place to re-supply. If there was, we couldn’t find it and nobody we spoke to in the campground knew of any store either.
After stopping we pulled our soaked tents out of our front bags and found some used some large sagebrush as drying racks. It was as if we had just pulled them from a lake. Completely soaked. As a side note, this is why we utilized a separate and smaller dry bag, in our front dry bags, to store our down bags/quilts. At least our sleep systems would stay dry, regardless of how our tents fared. Soon, we went about the task of making breakfast and cleaning up and repacking our gear.
We always had a list of things to do when we stopped, but in this instance, one of our particularly pressing issues was that we were running low on water. We noticed two younger guys in the campsite next to the picnic table we had chosen were packing up to leave and struck up a conversation. They had gone there to camp and fish for a couple of days, but had inadvertently forgotten their fishing fly rods, so they were heading home early. We asked if the campground had a water source (it did not, other than filtering river water), but they told us they had a five gallon water jug they were going to dump out, and asked us if we wanted some. Problem solved!!
So, after about an hour stop to clean up and at least get some food and water in us, we were on our way.
The ride to lunch (hopefully) in Kremmiling had a couple of major obstacles. The first was the climb up Lynx Pass, the second the climb up Gore Pass. Each climb was a bit of a tester, but due to the fact that the roads were Mag’d, the climbing was steady and smooth. Not far from the top of the second climb, overlooking the Colorado River far below, I was stopped by a bighorn sheep ram and three ewes crossing the road. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get my camera out in time to catch a picture (ugh!). By this point, Ray and I were separated by a bit, and I decided to continue on down the descent towards Kremmling and lunch. The descent was fast and smooth! Just over the top, I was passed by two fully loaded logging trucks. After about two miles, the grade increased and I was now flying down the hill, only to catch the logging trucks. I was bummed, because now I would be stuck behind them for the rest of the downhill. The logging guys must have seen me coming up behind them and, as the road was wide with great visibility for miles ahead, the eased over to the left to let me pass them on the right. I waved as I flew by and soon was going somewhere over 45 mph in full YEEHAW mode!!!
The quick detour to Kremmling on a paved road was about two miles. I rolled into town and stopped at the first open business I found, a meat market. My aim was simple. Stop and ask a local where the best place in town was to get lunch! I spoke at length to the lady, looking to be in her mid 40s, about lunch ideas. She was kind and also suggested we stop back by on our way out of town to buy some smoked brisket, salmon, etc. I thought about it for a while, but then realized to myself that having smoked meat in my packs in bear country might not be the smartest thing to do. I thanked her and was soon on my way out the door to the Moose Cafe.
As I was taking off my helmet, a lady in her mid 50s walked up to the cafe and commented that it must be much harder riding my bike than her horse. This led to a lengthy conversation about bikes, ranching, and other friendly topics. I asked her if she knew my cousin Jeff, who lives or had lived in Kremmling. She knew him, but informed me that he had left town a few years earlier. I was hoping to contact and see him, but sometimes, things just don’t work out.
Right then Ray pulled up so we finished getting our gear off and went inside for a nice lunch. The restaurant operated at a “casual”pace, as the sign on the door informed us of something to the effect of “We take our time cooking, so if you’re in a hurry, you might want to go somewhere else”. Good old western honesty!!
After we ate, we were back on the bikes and headed for Breckenridge, CO! We had also decided in Kremmling to make a motel reservation in Breckenridge. Now, Breckenridge was about 65 miles away and it was now after 12PM, so we knew we had some work ahead of us, as one of the obstacles still remaining in that 65 miles was Ute Pass. The first 25 miles or so of the ride to “Breck” were once again smooth mag’d roads. We had a bit of a tail pressure differential, so the pace was brisk as we rolled past Williams Fork Reservoir. Things were looking pretty good as we started the final 5-7 miles up Ute Pass and past the large mines that had left an indelible mark on the native forest and grass lands. I topped out and Ray was soon rolling up. We took a few pictures, donned some additional clothing for the descent and started down the now paved road. Things were initially looking good as were flying down the smooth pavement, but we were soon greeted by a substantial headwind that turned the downhill into more work than it should have been for the steep grade we were on. As we finished the drop and turned left onto Colorado Highway 9, things took an even more dramatic turn for the worse. We were now riding into a headwind and going somewhere around 5-8 mph. Not the quick ride to Silverthorne/Frisco/Breckenridge we were hoping for!!
After about 5 miles of struggle against the wind, we saw it. A massive storm that looked to be just a few miles up the road. Definitely between us and Silverthorne! As it started to sprinkle, we decided to pull over, review the map, and determine what exactly we were going to be in for. As we reviewed that map, sitting in the grass next to the garage of a nice lady who said we could seek shelter from the storm there, a gentleman in a truck pulled up. He lived in the neighborhood we were just entering and wanted to know if we were ok. We told him our plight and he offered to help if he could. Still believing we were OK, we thanked him but declined his offer. He told us he lived just up the street at the third house on the right if we changed our minds. Off he went.
Ray and I sat there for another 15 minutes as the storm got closer, trying to figure a way out of the mess we were about to find ourselves. No pubic land on which to set up a tent, dangerous paved/small shoulder/rainy/dark road towards Breck/motel reservation we might not make it to/at least another 4 hours in the impending weather. Nothing was a viable option. Soon we decided to go speak to the gentleman in the truck.
His name is Rob Hill, and he and his wife are the epitome of a trail angels!!
After the quick ride to his house, we were greeted by Rob in his driveway. We told him we might need his assistance. He immediately asked what our situation was. After hearing about our issues, he graciously offered to store our bikes for the evening in his garage and drive us the 30 or so miles to Breckenridge and our awaiting motel!! He then asked what time we would need to be picked up in the morning, as he is always up early and would be happy to go get us and return us back to his home, and our bikes! Holy cow, what a great guy! We sheepishly took him up on his offer.
As we rode to Breckenridge, he told us his story. A former Air Force and commercial pilot, he had recently retired and was also a cyclist. He also told of a recent road bike ride he was on wherein he had a mechanical and stood on the side of the road as cars and other cyclists simply rode by as he stood there needing assistance, none being offered. He said to himself that the next time he sees cyclists having troubles, he was going to help! And help he did!!
As he dropped us off in Breckenridge, he said he could pick us up any time. We finally agreed that 0700 was a good time and away he went. Incredible kindness!! Thanks Rob!!!!
Ray and I quickly checked into our room, took showers, started a load of laundry, and went out in search of food. It was 10 PM.
We asked the worker at the hotel desk where a good place to eat was. He said most things were closed, but that REDDZ was a good place and only a block away. We started out the door and were soon at Above the Blue "REDDZ". the small pop-up place was about 10’ x 10’ and is described on it’s website as “No-frills counter for classic comfort foods such as gyros, meatball subs, tacos, falafel & more.”. REDDZ is run by a younger (maybe 30 ish) guy with, not surprisingly , red hair and a long red beard. We order two entrees each, got them, and headed back to the hotel.
As we walked into the hotel, we were greeted by a guest in the lobby. Although I can’t remember his name, he was quite the character. He had originally spoken to us when we checked in, decked out in our wet and dirty cycling clothes and pushing our fully loaded bikes. He now asked us what we were doing and as we told him, demanded that he buy us a beer. So, there we were for the next hour or so, in the lobby of the hotel, eating our delicious dinner, drinking a couple of beers with another friendly human, and watching the NBA finals on the lobby TV. Our new friend was gregarious and simply loved meeting new folks, learning their stories, and telling his.
We finally finished, and bid him goodby!
It was a long day, and not one that turned out the way we planned, but we got to meet some incredibly friendly and interesting folks, so that’s a win in our book!!
We’re South bound and down!
Shane and Ray
